Sunday, May 31, 2009

Último Ensayo de Música


From Congo Square to Los Tablados


How to Best Get Bodies Dancing in the Street.


Or…


The Strikingly Similar Nature of Montevideo’s Murga and New Orleans’ Jazz Funerals









I arrived in Buenos Aires some months ago. It was a Monday , and I was absolutely dying to dig into what the city had to offer. As anyone who’s been in Buenos Aires the last few years must know, there’s only one place to party on a Monday evening: el Center Cultral de Konex, to see the Bomba de Tiempo. So off I went, carried by the promise of excitement; an excitement that only grew when the show started. Bomba de Tiempo, a self-described “rhythm, trance, raw, tribal forces, drums” show, combines various styles of afrolatino percussion into one big dance party soundtrack. At the time however, I didn’t know any of that. I simply heard the funkiest grooves I’d ever witnessed, and said to myself, “I want to do that!”







































































My first step was to get in touch with a traditional drum teacher in the city. I was put in touch with a local musician called Facundo Flores, or periodically, “The Viking-hippy” due to his long reddish-blonde hair (a little bit hippie, and little bit viking) and love of groove. Fast-forward four months, and I’ve gone from complete inexperience to slightly-less-experienced-initiate in the world of Latin American rhythms. As I worked my way through Chacarera, Zamba, Cueca, Candombe, Bossa Nova, and Samba, I came to realize a few things: first, that Bomba de Tiempo works as an amalgamation of a multidude of these Latin American rhythms, and second, that these substituent styles are rooted in African percussive traditions. In a sense, one can view Bomba as filter through which a partial history of African drumming is reassembled into a new and modern whole, interpreted through the lens of Latin American musical traditions. Bomba manages to coalesce the collected rhythms that came with the slaves from Africa into something new.This is the aggregated effect of what each individual style Bomba pulls from does individually. Slaves from Africa brought with them a multidue of traditional rhythmic patterns. These rhythms mixed with the European musical styles and forms of their European masters through various pathways, culminating in new creollo musical styles.Here’s the thing… I’d heard this, I’d read this, but I’d never really experienced it or felt it, in a truly personal way. Well, that was until I played the Murga for the first time.


From the second I got going on the “bombo y platillo” rhythm (bass drum and cymbal), while Facundo was drumming out the redoblante pattern, I was struck by profound sense of familiarity. I’d definitely heard this somewhere before. I knew the feeling of this sound passing through me. Then it hit me. French Quarter. Bourbon Street. Mardi Gras. Jazz Funerals.


New Orleans! That’s where I’d heard this before.


Now, they certainly aren’t playing murga in the streets of the Quarter. But what are they playing, and how does that relate to other people, playing other music, in other streets, in a city on the other side of the world?

The History of Murga

What that music from the other side of the world is and where it comes from seems like an appropriate place to start.














































































































































Murga is the traditional musical style of Uruguayan (and Argentine) Carnaval season. It can almost be better described a type of musical theater, in which a group of up to 17 men prepare an elaborate, satirical, musical play. It consists of songs and a speech and is performed on neighboorhood stages called tablados around Uruguay. The two most critical parts of the performance are the saludo (opening song) and the retirada or despedida(exit song).








































































The instrumentation is derived from the European military band, and consist of a bombo (a shallow bass drum word at the waist and played horizontally), a redoblante (a snare drum), and platillos (crash cymbals). It is generally agreed upon that the murga originated in 1906, when a Spanish zarzuela group came to Montevideo. Zarzuela, a subgenera of the Spanish Chirigotais "a Spanish lyric-dramatic genre that alternates between spoken and sung scenes, the latter incorporating operatic and popular song, as well as dance. The name derives from a royal hunting lodge, thePalacio de la Zarzuela near Madrid, where this type of entertainment was first presented to the court."

Chirigota is still performed in Spain during the period before Lent.






While the modern manifestation of chirigota has developed differently than the murga,
it is worth comparing the two to see the obvious similarities.

The following year a group calling itself as “Murga La Gaditana Que Se Va” performed in the Carnaval celebrations in Montevideo and from this moment on, murga beings to be refer to these evolving performances. The zarzuelastyle began to integrate with the traditional Uruguayan rhythms of candombe and by 1915 had combined with the traditional battery of European marching bands to achieve a new type of sound.

Listening to the murga, especially in the porteñostyle, you hear the very pronounced (1234 1234) of the snare drum 16th note pattern (see the rough sheet music above), alongside the syncopated off-beats of theplatillosand the bombos. On top of that rhythmic scaffolding, the 17 male voices create a complex and interweaving pattern that forms the melodic segment of the murga.

"The Second Line": New Orleans’ Social Aide and Pleasure Clubs and the Jazz Funeral

When I hear the murga, I hear the same fundamental style I hear in the streets of New Orleans.Known as "Second Line," this style of Jazz is distinctly New Orleans. It is the sound track to Mardi Gras, and if you’re truly lucky, you can witness it in it’s most grandiose incarnation: the Jazz Funeral. The Jazz Funeral and the Second Line parades during Mardi Gras are truly the wildest street parties I’ve ever seen. A huge glob of musicians get together and just let it rip while hundreds more people dance wildly all around dressed in outlandish and elaborate costumes.





































































Why is it called the Second Line?The term originates in the New Orleans street parade culture (of which its been said many times, that people from New Orleans will parade for just about anything, from the happiest to the saddest of occasions). The foundations of any New Orleans parade are the Social Aide and Pleasure Clubs.


These clubs have a long history, dating all the way back to just after the Civil War. The New Orleans Freedmen’s Aid Association was founded just seven months after the Civil War came to close in 1865. The organization’s original purpose was to provide loans, assistance and legal counsel, and a means of “education”, to the newly freed slaves. They eventually became known as social aide and pleasure clubs, of which Zulu was the largest and most renowned.


As these clubs continued to grow, the scope of their activities likewise increased. As an extension of their existence as a “social safety-net”, the clubs began to pay funeral costs and arranged for funeral celebrations. When the church funeral service concluded, the procession of the casket began from the church to the cemetery. A band would play funeral hymns, known as “dirges”. The "main line" were the members of the S & P Club themselves; the revelers who followed behind the band and danced “with wild abandon” were (and are) known as “the second line,” and developed alongside the nascent Jazz in New Orleans to become what is today known as Jazz Funerals.









































































































































“Led by a “Grand Marshal”, the band and mourners would move to the burial site, with the band playing a dirge to signal the struggles, the hardships, the ups and downs of life… On the way back, the music became more joyful. The band played high-spirited tunes [to] signal the dismissal, and interment of the physical body, and the joyous event of the release, of the soul, to heaven." (History of the Main Line, Willie Clark)




Notice how closely the previous passage matches this description of the murga and how similar the photos look:

“The message that the murgas propose in their retiradas, although they express the sadness of exile, departure, the return to normalcy, is one of encouragement, a promise of utopia… Murgas consist of a chorus, director, and battery of musicians, […] Dressed with exuberant, fantastic, or allegorical costumes and with their faces painted, the performers march to the rhythm and song of the instruments and voices…” (Remedi 97)




The intent and execution of both themurgaand the second line parades are so strikingly similar, in their pursuit to contextualize the sadness of life with joyous music. To begin unraveling the history of their deeper connections, one needs to dig all the way back to the origins of Jass.



***WARNING: We’re about to get expansive***


The dance of the “second line”, this dance of “wild abandon” is rooted in the earliest seeds of Jazz, in a place known as Congo Square. Congo Square was and is an open space located in the Tremé neighborhood of New Orleans just across Rampart Street north of the French Quarter. In the French and Spanish colonial eras of the 1700’s, slaves were typically given Sundays off from work. They were allowed to gather in the "Place de Negres” or informally "Place Congo" at the "back of town," where the slaves would sing, dance, and play music. In addition, because of the wave of French “refugees” fleeing from the Haitian Revolution (some of whom brought slaves), New Orleans received thousands Africans and Creoles in the early 1800’s. (Importantly, as we will see, so did Cuba). Perhaps a little colonial text to set the scene:



Creole Slave Dance: The Dance in Congo Place.

By George W. Cable

1886

The booming of African drums and blast of huge wooden horns called to the gathering. It was these notes of invitation, reaching beyond those of other outlandish instruments, that caught the Ethiopian ear, put alacrity into the dark foot, and brought their owners, male and female, trooping from all quarters. The drums were very long, hollowed, often from a single piece of wood, open at one end and having a sheep or goat skin stretched across the other. One was large, the other much smaller. The tight skin heads were not held up to be struck; the drums were laid along on the turf and the drummers bestrode them, and beat them with the head madly with fingers, fists, and feet, with slow vehemence on the great drum, and fiercely and rapidly on the small one. Sometimes an extra performer sat on the ground behind the larger drum, its open end, and beat upon the wooden sides of it with two sticks. The smaller drum was often made from a joint or two of very large bamboo, in the West Indies where such could be got, and this is said to be the origin of its name; for it was called the Bamboula.






In stolen hours of night or the basking-hour of noon the black man contrived to fashion these rude instruments and others. The drummers, I say, bestrode the drums; the other musicians sat about them in an arc, cross-legged on the ground. One important instrument was a gourd partly filled with pebbles or grains of corn, flourished violently at the end of a stout staff with one hand and beaten upon the palm of the other. Other performers rang triangles, and others twanged from jews-harps an astonishing amount of sound. Another instrument was the jawbone of some ox, horse, or mule, and a key rattled rhythmically along its weather-beaten teeth. At times the drums were reinforced by one or more empty barrels or casks beaten on the head with the shank-bones of cattle.






A queer thing that went with these when the affair was pretentious full dress, as it were at least it was so in the West Indies, whence Congo [Square] drew all inspirations was the Marimba.






[…]






But the grand instrument at last, the first violin, as one might say, was the banjo. It had but four strings, not six: beware of the dictionary. It is not the favorite musical instrument of the negroes of the Southern States of America. Uncle Remus says truly that is the fiddle; but for the true African dance, a dance not so much of legs and feet as of the upper half of the body, a sensual, devilish thing tolerated only by Latin-American masters, there was wanted the dark inspiration of African drums and the banjos thrump and strum. And then there was that long-drawn human cry of tremendous volume, richness, and resound, to which no instrument within their reach could make the faintest approach: all the instruments silent while it rises and swells with mighty energy and dies away distantly, Yea-a-a-a-a-a! then the crash of savage drums, horns, and rattles.

[…]

And yet there was entertaining variety. Where? In the dance! There was constant, exhilarating novelty endless invention in the turning, bowing, arm-swinging, posturing and leaping of the dancers. Moreover, the music of Congo [Square] was not tamed to mere monotone. Monotone became subordinate to many striking qualities. The strain was wild. Its contact with French taste gave it often great tenderness of sentiment. It grew in fervor, and rose and sank, and rose again, with the play of emotion in the singers and dancers.

The picture the observer George W. Cable makes here in 1886 is both wildly foreign and exotic, while simultaneously conjuring a picture so similar to the one seen earlier of the modern second line parades in New Orleans. The origins of the great party are there. We’ve got “pretentious full dress” or the origins of the wild costumes, we’ve got “the true African dance, a dance not so much of legs and feet as of the upper half of the body, a sensual, devilish thing,” or the origins of the revelers dance of “wild abandon,” and we’ve got the African rhythms and percussion, still evident in the musical structure of today’s parades, and the strongest link between the Second Line parades and the murga of the Rio Plate.


The Second Line

The Second Line parades and the murgashare a common musical heritage, and one that can be traced back to a basically singular point. In a broader sense, the two forms can be traced back through the slave trade to Africa. The slaves brought from the western coast of Africa (the origin of the majority of the slaves in the Americas) carried with them many of their musical traditions. This was mainly constituted of drum types (which were reconstructed in analogous forms in the New World) and rhythmic patterns. George W. Cable even remarks upon one he noticed called the bamboula saying, “The smaller drum was often made from a joint or two of very large bamboo, in the West Indies where such could be got, and this is said to be the origin of its name; for it was called the Bamboula.”In fact, this style has been somewhat preserved to modern day on the Island of St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

https://globalsound.si.edu/listen2.aspx?type=preview&trackid=11731

Likewise, another rhythmic pattern thought to have been used in Congo Square was the “congo” drumming pattern, here preserved in a modern sample from Trinidad and Tobago.

https://globalsound.si.edu/listen2.aspx?type=preview&trackid=24087

You can start to see the origins of syncopation in the 3 over 2 pattern exhibited in both tracks, but more on that later. Suffice to say, this and other African rhythms were carried over to the New World, where they began to germinate and evolve around the Caribbean and, thanks to the laws of the Spanish Crown, in Montevideo. The city's first real economic boom had occurred when the Spanish Crown made Montevideo the only slave port in the Viceroyalty of La Plata, (infuriating the Viceroyalty's capital, Buenos Aires). The importance of this legal point was it assured that Uruguay would come into contact with the same Afro-Caribbean beats that were percolating in New Orleans, and more importantly, in Cuba.

Many (in fact the majority) of the Creoles fleeing the Haitian Revolution around the turn of the 18thcentury ended up not in New Orleans, but the easternmost province of Cuba, known as Oriente. The French brought a dance known as the contradanza with them to Cuba. This dance was played with European instruments however most the musicians playing them were Black or Mulatto. Traditional African drums were not used in these dances (unlike the danced in Congo Square) because these audiences were still generally European and the tribal drums were thought to be inappropriate and “lower.” However, the sound of the tympani didn’t quite work for these, which required a more pronounced rhythm than their European ancestors and were eventually replaced by a native Cuban instrument, the timbales and the güiro.



The resultant rhythm, of the contradanza combined with the Cubano percussion, is a clear product of a rhythm known as the “cinquillo,” an element of obvious African origin. This cinquillo pattern is present in the bata-rhythms of Cuban Santeria as well as Haitian voodoo. It is made up of a five note syncopated pattern.

This is a typical Afro-Cuban/Caribbean rhythm, found almost universally in the dances of Caribbean. When used in a 2/4 measure, it creates a pronounced syncopation. The cinquillo was used in the rumba, and early slave music style in Cuba. Though more Afro-Spanish than Afro-Cuban, the rumba would spawn the habanera, the key (or clave, haha, little joke) to our chronology.


In 1836, an unattributed piece of music known as “La Pimienta,” was the first known use of what we now call the “habanera rhythm,” which was at the time categorized as a contradanza habanera. After 1840, the style became simply Habanera, and the rhythm quickly traveled from Cuba, along the slave trading routes, to New Orleans and Montevideo, making Cuba the common point of departure in the lineage of murga and the Second Line.

We could follow the journey of the habanera southward and watch it evolve into murga by way of candombe, but as we’ve already discussed that viaje in class, I’m going to follow the other leg of the trip, north to the “Big Easy."


Cakewalk, “Ragged Time”, and the Birth of Jass

So we’re back in Louisiana, now firmly a member of the U.S.A., about 50 years after the development and diffusion of the habaneraaround the turn of the 1900’s, and about 10 years after the George W. Cable witnessed a Sunday in Congo Square.


Somewhere between the purely African rhythms danced in Congo Square and 1900, a style of dancing known as originally known as the “chalk line walk,” or “Cakewalk” was born. It took the form of a dance contest amongst now former slaves, in which the winner actually won a cake. “The dance takes its name from competitions held on plantations prior to Emancipation, in which prizes, sometimes cake, were given for the best dancers.”

As a musical form, Cakewalk was defined by a 2/4 notation with two alternate heavy beats per bar which gives is a distinct “ooompah” feeling (similar to the sordo pattern used in Brasilian samba).


Cakewalk also made use of syncopation based on a habanerarhythm superimposed on a traditional European march rhythm.This syncopation was "an idiomatic corruption, a flattened-out mutation of what was once the true polyrhythmic character of African music" but however served as the inspiration for Scott Joplin when he created a new musical style of his own.


“Ragged Time”

Scott Joplin began formulating a new style, what would eventually be known as “Ragtime,” in the brothels of New Orleans in the 1890’s. What they were doing was “mashing-up” popular Sousa marches with the African polyrhythm we saw earlier in the bamboula, the congo, and the habanera; rhythms already present in the Black music of New Orleans.Joplin became famous when in 1899 he published sheet music for a piano-version of his "Maple Leaf Rag" and later in 1902 “The Entertainer.” He is credited with the coinage of the term “swing,” which he used to describe how to play his “ragtime” music: "Play slowly until you catch the swing..." This codification of the idea of “swing” is the last rung in the ladder on the way from traditional African rhythms and the birth of Jazz.

King Bolden


There’s a mysterious man hidden at the dawn of jazz. It’s said he’s, “a legend who turned the lights on for everyone, then left the room unnoticed," and even Louis Armstrong credits him as the originator of the style that would become known as jazz.

While no known recordings exist, anecdotal evidence from the second generation of jazz musicians points to a cornet player named Buddy Bolden as the man who created jazz. They credit him with playing a “looser, more improvised version of ragtime and adding the blues to it." Likewise, he’s credited as the first person to even play the blues on brass instruments in the first place. Until he went crazy in 1907 (literally), he was the influence for all the major musicians from whom flowed the future of Jazz, including King Joe Oliver, who’s group “King Oliver and his Creole Jazz Band” would serve as the archetype for our end goal: Second Line parade bands.

Second Line Parade Music

Jeffery Clemmons, of G.Love and Special Sauce, gives an excellent summary of the evolution of second line drumming:

“Well, in musical terms it's the syncopated rhythm and a by-product of Jazz. Parade bands (consisting of a bass drummer, snare drummer, tuba, trombones, trumpets and saxophones) formed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. French and Spanish rule of New Orleans collided with the influx of European immigrants, and post-slavery African-American roots. This 'mixing of races',* is the single most important element of the distinct rolling rhythms of 2nd line parade music. This rhythm, a signature to New Orleans music, is still one of the most important threads to the sound and feel of New Orleans, both past and present." Long before "Jazz" was even a word or style of music, the early days of colonial New Orleans were celebrated with events that included these marching bands, indigenous to New Orleans...ranging from lavish balls, society gatherings, parades, and jazz funerals."

*embodied by our previously discussed chronology.




How to Play a Second Line Drum Beat -- powered by eHow.com



More Sheet Music Analysis

What you can see and here throughout the sheet music and demonstration videos is a pronounced swing of the 1234 1234 pattern in the 16th notes of the snare, as well as a "oompah" in the bass drum. Which should feel quite familiar, because it's strikingly similar to the percussion rhythms of the murga, similarly derived from the habanera and other afro-cuban rhythms from almost a two centuries ago.





































































So we’ve made it our Jazz Funerals. We’ve taken traditional African rhythmic patterns, transported them to the New World, passed them through Haiti into Cuba, sent them on their separate paths to evolve into Jazz in New Orleans and Murga  in Montevideo, and watched them collide back together in my own consciousness. I sure enjoyed the journey, I hope you did too.

[3,854 Words]

















Saturday, May 2, 2009

Scooterfuntime

Pics from my trip to Colonia, Uruguay

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36139456@N03/sets/

Monday, April 13, 2009

The photo fest

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36139456@N03/sets/

More later, but I could not wait to get these up somewhere to share.

....oh yeah,

IM BACK IN BsAs!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

VAMOS

Gone fishing.

Be back on EASTER!

Much love to ya,

Sam

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Some football

Yesterday I got to go and watch the ablicelesties of Argentina (i.e. the Argentine National Football Team, the White and Sky Blues) absolutely drub Venezuela 4-0.  Decked out in my brand new Argentina jersey, a little rudimentary song practice completed, and some friends in tow, we made quite an adventure out of it.  Not quite as intense as BOCA, as we actually went with NYU this time, had nice, really expensive seat in what we would call the grey-heads section.  Though, let's be honest, even the older, richer fans here put the student section in UM to shame.  Some songs for your enjoyment, followed by some stuff I found with Boca Songs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCFk4miHViQ&feature=player_embedded

http://footballchants.wordpress.com/category/boca-juniors/

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Next Life Mission

Check off South America, next life goal...

Mom, you probably will like this one even less than spring break :-)

Spring Break Itinerary (IN PICTURES WOOT)

Click each for an informative link



4 College Kids.  12 Days.  2 Countries.  At the end of the world.

Flurry

A flurry of updates well worth the wait...


A Brief Monologue.

Ben: Hey Sam. Welcome back, how was Mendoza?

Sam: Excellent. Have you seen Mike? It doesn’t look like he’s been here since I left on Thursday.

Ben: Probably true, I think he’s been staying with his friend that’s here for spring break.

Sam: Oh yeah, the dude with the girl’s name I met last week. What was his name? Like Hailey or Hallie or something?

Ben: It was Hallie, like Hallie Joel Osmet.

Sam: Oh yeeaah. Exactly like that. Weird choice in examples.

Ben: No, it was Hallie Joel Osmet.

Sam: Wait… Seriously? That scruffy little dude chilling around my dorm room for the last week was actually Hallie Joel Osmet?!?!

Ben: Yeah, you didn’t realize?

Sam: How would I have realized, I haven’t seen the kid’s face since the 6th Sense!?!?
{Sam proceeds to pee pants laughing}

Ben: I thought you’d think that was funny.




Wine Country for the Weekend.

Wow, wine country for the weekend, and a whirlwind tour at that.
I’m all for these weekend getaways, seeing as I don’t have much else in terms of options to see all the great places in Argentina and the surround, but damn does it get exhausting. Spring Break is going to a be a much appreciated real vacation.

So how did we get to Mendoza?
Well I guess first we should start with who?
Basically, the same group of people that I went to Punta Del Este, plus Sam from across the street, a guy here from South Carolina that I hang out with a lot (We’re going to Radiohead tomorrow, WHOLE NOTHER STORY) and Ilyana, whom is one of the 3 people I’m going on to Tierra del Fuego with. I guess you would say these 10 people are my good friends here, and definitely good travel buddies, up-for-anything-types, so really I couldn’t be happier that I’ve found these people. As for who these people are, I’m sure most of you will get the chance to meet some of them, as they are likely going to be visiting me in Ann Arbor this coming term, as part of my critera for selecting the friends is the fact that these are the guys and girls who when I get pumped to go watch Michigan play Iowa in the Big Ten Basketball tourney say, “How do we get there?” as opposed to the other swath of NYU kids who say, “Why the hell would you want to watch that?” but this again, is a whole nother story.

At this point I have to say, Go Blue! Great Season, Long Live Belein, y
¡Queme los Barcos!
An expression with which I think I have a special appreciation. I haven’t gotten to watch the Michigan-Clemson game yet (I’ve finally finished downloading it), but I was getting text updates from a friend at the bar while I was on the bus and when I got, “Go Blue, Michigan wins” I may or may not have sang the Victors on a bus flying across the Argentine interior… which I must say is a kinda cool experience.


But why was I on a bus flinging itself across the width of Argentina, from the coast of the Atlantic a few thousand kilometers to the base of the Andes? To go to wine country, of course?
It’s a 15 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, which we began at 8:45 Thursday night and arrived in Mendoza around 11:00 am on Friday. Quite a ride. Even though the busses are way more comfortable and spacious than an American tour bus, it was still pretty dificult to sleep solidly. But who would ever let that stop them, seeing as our return bus trip was approx. 31 hours away Saturday evening.
So! 6 of grabbed the first bus to Maipu (yup, pronounced My-Poo and b. yes another bus, it’s kinda a theme of this weekend) and an hour later had ourselves some bikes with which to ride around wine country.
Well, the bikes were a little bit harder than that. We told the bus driver we wanted to go to Mr. Hugo’s, the most reputable and well known bike rental place in Maipu. However, he instead waited until everyone else had gotten off the bus, and then seeminly drove us to his friends house/rental shop… but mostly just house. Luckily, this boludo had 6 bikes, for cheap as all get up, so we were on our way (and only two of the bikes broke down during the course of the day, woo!!! But, he did come and bring a new bike everytime, so that was legit.)

This first day, we actually only biked to one vineyard successfully, but for me it was the best of the whole trip. It was called El Rural and it is the oldest vineyard in Argentina, it was a really cool museum of wine, a great tour of the grounds, and best of all, a tour of the entire winemaking process. I actually learned about what makes more expensive/better wines, grapes in hand, so that we really cool. We got to try a glass from a 100 dollar a bottle wine too, so that was really cool.

So I don’t feel tempted to say it a thousand times in this:

Mendoza = Malbec.

The grape doesn’t grow anywhere else in the world even remotely as well as it does in Mendoza, a microclimate desert, and no other variety of wine here, while good, even come close to how great a 2002 Mendoza Melbec, aged in 1st use oak barrels tastes. (HA!)

After the tour, we tried to bike to Trapiche, the biggest and most industrial yet big-epic-scale beautiful in Argentina, but it was closed to the public that day (as it would be when we tried to go back the next day). We had really wanted to go there, because at our local corner bar, Malouva, we almost always buy a Trapiche Malbec. But alas.

That night we went to a big all-you-could-eat asado (grill-out) thrown by our hostel. Highlights included:

ALL YOU CAN EAT STEAK FOR 7 DOLLARS!

and

Playing drinking games with the british kids staying with us (We whooped them in Flip-Cup)

We followed up our day of wine touring with…
A DAY OF WINE TASTING!

We spent all day from 10am till around 5:30 hopping from antique/botique Bodega (vineyard) to Bodega all day, trying wine after wine after wine of every type. Don’t worry Mom, I’ll be sending you home a case before I come home this summer. It was too good not to.

Oh, and we went to a tiny little chocolate/liquour/jelly “factory” that was really just a kitchen and a dining room right before we came back to the bus. Unreal fudge, and fudge/dolce de leche flavored liqour. Like whoa!
So anywhoo, that was Mendoza. A whirlwind tour of wine country. Beautiful views of the Andes and the Pampas along the way, and now back to school. Pretty solid 72 hours right?

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Red Berenson, Michigan Man

So this article is an absolutely great read, from the Ann Arbor News, about Red Berenson, and what an unbelievable coach/hockey player/gentleman he is.  I highly recommend reading it, especially as today is the eve of our FIRST CCHA PLAYOFF GAMES!  Which is exciting, cause I'm feeling like sending Red off on a national championship.  Or hey, cause he signed that new contract, how bout 3 straight.  Lets kick off a 3 year retirement party right.

But anyway, why am I posting about Michigan stuff?

Because tonight, well more accurately this afternoon, I'm going to make my first attempt at watching American college sports here in Bs.As.

When I get out of class today at 5 I'm hauling but over to Shoeless Joe's, right near microcentro *the center of the city* to see if they'll put on the Michigan basketball game this afternoon.  It's tips off at 2:30 Eastern time, 4:30 Bs.As. time, and it could be the game that makes or breaks Michigan's tourney bid.  And I'd really rather that they made it.

Go Blue!

Just was talking about this.

Craziness

I wonder if anyone´s ever done it over iguazu?

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Upcoming

Coming attractions:

1. MY FIRST PICTURES including never before seen footage of... CATS, MY DORM ROOM, and THE OLD MAN AT THE KIOSCO¡¡¡

2. A first hand account of Sam Wainwright`s first full-blown clubbing experience.

3. La Bomba Blow-Out

4. The truth of the human construction of time.

and more¡

For the Advanced or Adventurous Reader

Mis impresiones de Buenos Aires al principio?  Los mayorías de mis sentimientos son muy bien.  Me gustan muchas de los partes de la ciudad y la cultura de la ciudad.  Me gusta como los porteños hablar.  No solamente los tópicos que ellos hablan, que son muy interesante en algo idioma, pero también como ellos los dicen.  Me encanta el versión de catalán que está diciendo aquí, con los :LL’s como sho:.  Un idioma que tiene palabras diferentes de todos los otros dialectos para cosas común; un idioma que le hace el libro de clase se parece muy tonto para tratar de poner reglas por un idioma que puede cambio por un momento.  Y esté es mi impresión al empiece de este viaje.  Hay un camino correcto en el libro, y un cayshe[1] correcto para un porteño.  Si se puede buscar la tiempo para aprender el segundo camino, se puede encontrar la Buenos Aires real.



[1] Calle ;-)

Doy cuento a algunos bandas nuevos

So I'm doing my best to find as much argentine music as possible, made harder by the fact that iTunes really doesn't like other countries, but facilitated by this country's love of record stores (especially in my neighborhood).

This band is pretty decent, and they have a great ridiculously-long-indie-band-name-that-is-complete-unrelated-to-their-style-of-music name.

El Mató a un Policía Motorizado (myspace)
(He killed a motorcyle cop)

The song is "Villancico del Final" (Christmas Carols of the End)

Enjoy.


El Mató a un Policía Motorizado: Villancico del Final (Experimental) from ELECTRIC FAKE MUSTACHE on Vimeo.



Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Punta















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PHOTOS DEL ESTE

Punta del Este! 
Woo quite the weekend.
Basically Thursday night at midnight to 5pm/midnight Saturday, depending on who's counting. 
Punta, for those not in the know, is pretty much the primo, numero uno beach resort in South America.  Along with that, it's the most expensive.  No worries though, we pulled off quite the bargain-bin weekend.
First off, we went, well, this weekend.  The first weekend of the off-season, and pretty much one of the quietest of the year.  Everyone, literally everyone, from Buenos Aires vacates the city for the months of january and february because it's just too damn humid.  Like New Orleans in August, which, according to Michelle is exactly what it's like.  So everyone vacates the city for Punta del Este.  Kinda like the redneck riviera, a la Dauphin Island, but well, kinda more like the ACTUAL French Riviera.  

So we took the BUQUEBUS, or actually, if you ask me, the BUSQUEBUS (Properly pronounced boose-Kay-boooooose).  It's a really fantastic company that runs the giant grey's anatomy-seattle-batman-the-dark-night-actually-like-the-climactic-scene-off-navy-pier-with-the-joker ferry boat that crosses over the Rio de la Plata to Uruguay, and then runs a bus 4 hours down the coast to punta del este.  
We hopped off the bus at 6:30 and then... well... I think it might just be easier to show you.

 
Okay, slight back track.  This was the ferry boat.  With my eight amigos.

 
This right here is me.  Pre-tan.  Her right there is Amanda, the brains behind this excellent weekend.
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Punta Pics 2

 
This was our hostel.  This was the big common room/breakfast nook/best bar in town room.  Oh yeah, and crash pad.  Cause we didn't "get" our room till 2pm.  There were Austrailians here as well.  Really drunk aussies.  At 6:30 in the morning.  And they actually pronounced bullshit as "boo-shit."  Like flight of the conchords.  Word.

 
Yup, that's the view from our hostel.  Yeah, that's the beach.

 
That's amanda.  The person.  Not the sign.  But isn't this the creepiest picture ever?

 
Yup, celebratory 7am beer.
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